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Orogun01 last won the day on August 12 2015

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    somewhere over the rainbow


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  1. I resent that! I'm a drunk spic, sir.
  2. Pro tip: use filler primer to even out the surface and get rid of the layer lines. Even more Pro Tip: make a silicone mold of the smooth print and cast it in an impact resistant material Smooth on is your friend https://www.smooth-on.com/ They have sample sizes on Amazon, don't order a big one since it has a limited shelf life.
  3. They have CNC machines and services, you can just make one out of wood. But if you still want to print it: https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/timberfill-rosewood-filament-1.75mm/sk/MRAE4Y3Z?rcode=GAT9HR&gclid=CjwKCAjwqfDlBRBDEiwAigXUaMSIgYJgv1W4eKJ2-gpUiGCLKEGBYQE9_HorVM788Ph3_Imi1O5KbhoCEvcQAvD_BwE BTW is hard to tell from your picture but I think your machine only takes 2.85mm filament. Pro tip: You can run a 1.75mm bowden tube inside your bowden tube to use smaller filament.
  4. It took me a while, but I laughed.
  5. Shinobido is better than Sekiro. Fight me!
  6. Even the dog gets the Netflix treatment
  7. Unfortunately this film is made by the director of Borat and the Hangover trilogy so I can't say that it will be anything good. One can only hope
  8. I know, It would actually be better if it didn't have the comic book name attached to it.
  9. ****, you just brought me back to my freaking childhood. You might also like Silvio Rodriguez
  10. Pffft, like I know anything. All I know is every time I go out into the garage there's a new test doodad on the worktable. I only know he started with a very cheap "kit" then once he knew what was what, he started buying separate parts that combined with printing some of the supporting parts, he built his own. I guess. That's what he says anyway. That's the way he is (takes apart a phone then remakes it, type) (the blue parts are what he printed) The main limiter with most of these home 3d printers that I've seen (whether $300 or $3000) is build size, which seems to run between 5 inches and 8 inches (height, width). The hot end can only go so high up the rails with most of these designs. So no 5 foot tall Yoda. Edit: the thing hubby struggles with the most is how smooth the print ends up - there's always this one line or two that looks funny. Calibration stuff. You could smooth it out after of course but he wants perfection I suppose. Edit Edit: Hubby just woke up - he says the three main issues with build size are stability of the rails (taller they are), keeping the print platform hot the (bigger it is...) and weight bowing of the horizontal bar (longer it is). One company made a $500 one that's fairly large (not necessarily super-pro quality printing but if size matters...) and of course you can make your own. Which hubby says he's been thinking of doing. So one day I'm going to go into the garage and find a printer taking up half the room, right? Tell your hubby this: slow printing will make for the greatest quality even if your layer height is not the best. If you're printing ABS you want to have a high buildplate temperature as well as a brim to keep the print from warping (low infill too). Aside form that sandpaper and grey primer and filler are your best friends when it comes to fixing prints. You might also try some epoxy putty or some other type to smooth the areas where the support touches the model.
  11. ”Generally, the only way a vampire changes generation is through diablerie. When a Cainite diablerizes a vampire of lower generation their generation decreases by one or possibly more if the victim was particularly potent. There are other, much rarer, methods of changing generation, but they usually involve powerful sorcery and are closely guarded secrets.” Nephie, you're alive!!! ...Also the game will suck....pun not intended.
  12. Ok, since we are revealing or love of the 90's techno
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