Yeah, the civil war thing just broke my mind it was so weakass. OK, so they make Ulfric's story a little bit interesting. But that's it.
I try not to do it unless ordered to in game, but you can freely serve one side, and stroll happily into the capital of the other IN UNIFORM. Have a cup of hot chocolate and a brioche, chat with the guards. You name it.
~
You have to admire their determination to get fresh dialogue all over the shop, though. Even minor caves get little chats about features in the cave.